Kit Flywheel + Flywheel Puller Gasket for Arctic Cat TBX 400 A. 2002-08 3430054

ATV / UTV / SXS. Kit Flywheel + Flywheel Puller Gasket for Arctic Cat TBX 400 A. Brand new kit magneto flywheel + flywheel puller + gasket. Direct replacement to your original unit. All item pictures are accurate; if in doubt, do not hesitate to compare our item to your original part. Plug-and-play, direct fit, easy installation. PLEASE NOTE: This kit will fit ONLY on AUTOMATIC models. PLEASE NOTE: This kit will only fit automatic models. It will not work with manual models. Brand new Magneto Flywheel, Flywheel Puller and Gasket. All item pictures are accurate, if in doubt, do not hesitate and compare our item to your original part.

50 MM x 1.5 Right Hand Female. New Heavy Duty Flywheel Rotor Arctic Cat + Suzuki ATV.

Introducing our newest Heavy Duty Flywheel Rotor For Arctic Cat + Suzuki ATVs. Anyone who rides or repairs Arctic Cat + Suzuki ATVs is probably familiar with the flywheel problems common to these models.

Most of these machines will have at least one flywheel failure in their lifetime so far. Low quality epoxy was used on OEM flywheels to secure the magnets to the rotor body. Over time and many heat cycles, the epoxy fails allowing the magnets to come loose and contact the stator, potentially causing catastrophic damage.

This sounds like a great idea at first, but there are some serious issues! The common repair is using JB Weld? Marine Blue Epoxy to reattach the loose original magnets, or to install new ones. Epoxy fixes do repair flywheels in short term, if they are done correctly. However, this kind of repair can easily cause immediate problems, and impact long term reliability of your ATV.

Watch Evan, our head of engineering, explaining why you must not repair a flywheel. A Heavy Duty Flywheel to the rescue! New RMSTATOR heavy-duty flywheel rotor for Arctic Cat + Suzuki ATVs is a well-priced solution to problems with the OEM flywheel, and an excellent alternative to all the mechanical troubles you can encounter with a repair. Built to OEM size Fits precisely in your ride: install it and forget it.

Improved epoxy Uses high temperature epoxy that is stronger than OEM, eliminating the possibility of magnet detachment. High grade steel capping Prevents harsh additives in motor oil from degrading the epoxy attaching the magnets. Though extremely unlikely, if a magnet did ever come loose, it would remain in the sleeve preventing contact with the stator. Precise balancing Eliminates crankshaft vibrations for longer engine longevity. Don't waste time with temporary solutions, and start fixing your ride like a pro!

Why cheap repairs won't work? Quick stronger epoxy fixes do repair flywheels in short term. It might however impair long term performance and reliability of your ride.

Remaining OEM magnets: Original magnets remaining can still come loose at any time. Magnet alignment: The alignment of magnets around the flywheel is critical for proper stator operation. Even very fine misalignment will reduce stator efficiency significantly. Magnet spacing: Excessive epoxy or incorrect magnet spacing around the flywheel can easily affect the flywheel balance. This can cause stator contact or even crankshaft damages.

Incorrect replacement magnets: The magnetic field strength of new magnets MUST match the originals. Stator failure can occur quickly with stronger magnets and stator output can be decreased significantly using weaker magnets.

Wrong epoxy properties: Epoxy that is not rated to permanently handle high temperatures and oil immersion can quickly cause a serious failure. Oil contamination: Wrong epoxy for the application can also contaminate the crankcase oil, damaging the motor. All these reasons make us strongly recommend that you replace your broken flywheel with a new 400+ OEM one or our new heavy duty flywheel.

Dimensions: Exterior Diameter: 143 mm Interior Diameter: 118 mm Interior Diameter Center Housing: 18 mm Exterior Diameter Center Housing: 42 mm Thickness (exterior): 12 mm Thickness (interior): 13 mm. Puller: 50 mm x 1.5 Right hand Female. Before attempting to start your vehicle, adjusting the air gap is necessary.

Tips on removing a power sport vehicle flywheel / rotor. Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox.

Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel.

A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt. Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torquing the fixing bolt, or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap.

We can give you two simple tips to break a stuck flywheel loose. But how do you know if it?

You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this.

If it is stuck, don? T use more torque or you might break your wrench. If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow.

Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off.

Once again, getting into that situation will be pricey. T forget your safety glasses. The hammer is not a be-all, end-all solution.

Sometimes, you will have to find something more powerful, and that? S where the propane torch comes in.

As a last resort solution, the heat should expand the flywheel but not the crank, since it is too massive to expand as fast. That way, the flywheel will become looser and will come off easier. Remember: In order to not set fire to your garage, your vehicle or yourself, certain precautions are necessary prior to heating the flywheel. Clean any oil or flammable liquids off the flywheel.

Make sure your work area is free of any flammable liquids and that you work in a well ventilated area. Make sure to remove the gas tank and set it aside at a safe distance. Make sure the flame of your torch is focused, and heat only the center of the flywheel. This is due to the fact that some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat. Here again, the wheel might fall off the crank, so be prepared to catch it.

And remember that you just heated it, so make sure you can catch it without burning yourself. With these tips and techniques, you are now equipped to handle any stuck flywheel without throwing your flywheel puller at it; unless you have a habit of working with machines that have been in a lake for months! If your item is not available in our main Colorado facility, we still guarantee that your order will be delivered within the specified time period. More than 20 years of assisting mechanics around the world resolving the worst electrical problems made us know our stuff. When it comes to vehicle electrics, we definitively are the power in powersports.